Taiwan & Bangkok Itinerary - Spring 2025

Two years ago, I promised to visit Taiwan as frequently as possible to see my parents. This is partly due to their advancing age and partly because of the military threat from China. This being Brian’s second trip to Taiwan, we felt less pressured to visit the country’s tourist hotspots. Instead, we got to stay a few days in my hometown, Hsinchu, and spent more time with my parents. Like many of our recent trips, I had a rough itinerary early but procrastinated on booking accommodations and the specifics. Thankfully, I knew my home country well enough to be spontaneous.

Because we visited Thailand and Taiwan, I jokingly called this trip our “White Lotus Season 3” tour. One of the most famous memes from this latest season of the popular show involves a common mix-up between the two countries. When I first immigrated to the United States, I told others that I was born and raised in Taiwan. Many Americans would assume I was Thai and then go on to tell me how much they love Thai food. Thanksfully, it happens a lot less often nowadays, partly due to Taiwan’s contribution to semiconductors and the artificial intelligence.

This trip was one for the record books, as we flew business class for the first time. Brian had been on a few domestic short-haul business class flights previously, but this would be the first time we had flown business long-haul. Obviously, we did not pay for it with cash. By playing the complex game of airlines’ miles and points, we took a circuitous route to Taiwan via London, Zurich, and Bangkok with three different airlines. We needed separate tickets for the final leg to Taipei. The routing may be exhausting, but who wouldn’t want a three-night stay in Bangkok?

Day 1 - Newark - London- Zurich - Bangkok

After a restful flight from Zurich, we arrived at Suvarnabhumi Airport in the early morning. Unbeknownst to us until only a few days prior, our visit coincided with Songkran, the Thai New Year. It is the country’s most important holiday and a major draw for visitors. However, Brian and I may be the only tourists who are not looking forward to Songkran. Water fights in the streets are just not our jam, but it does come with an enormous upside: the absence of Bangkok’s notorious traffic. Amazingly, it took us only twenty minutes to get from the airport to our hotel, the lovely dusitD2 Samyan.

Since we arrived at the hotel so early, we had a few hours to explore the city before check-in. We were not prepared for just how deserted Bangkok was on Songkran. There were barely any cars on the streets, and few places were open. After a little caffeine dose at Experiment Cafe, we took the MRT to Yaowarat, often regarded as Bangkok’s lively Chinatown. I was naive enough to be shocked that even Chinatown was mostly abandoned. The only businesses open were those selling water guns for Songkran. Luckily, we were able to enjoy a bowl of guay jub, the Thai rice noodle, at the Michelin-listed Nai Ek Roll Noodle.

As a center of Thai Chinese culture, Yaowarat is anchored by the most important Chinese Buddhist shrine: Wat Mangkon Kamalawat. The architecture and worship here struck me as very similar to temples I grew up with in Taiwan. However, in Thai fashion, this temple also has a strict dress code, which requires that shoulders and knees be covered. Even though Songkran usually marks the arrival of the spring season, we were already struggling with the oppressive heat and humidity. It makes temple visits all the more uncomfortable.

One highlight of our unexpected visit to Bangkok was meeting up with my cousin, Kevin, whom I haven’t seen in almost twenty years. We made a last-minute plan to meet up for dinner at Tummour inside the closest shopping mall to the hotel. Bangkokians love the malls as they provide a convenient one-stop shop for dining and entertainment. Samyan Mitrtown may be among the city’s smaller malls, but it is still far nicer than most malls back home. It was great to catch up with Kevin after so long, and we were fascinated by his new life in Bangkok.

Day 2 - Bangkok

Well rested this morning, we made a beeline after the hotel breakfast for Wat Pho, better known as the Temple of the Reclining Buddha. This impressive monastery complex was among the oldest in Bangkok and is the first among the six first-class royal temples. Many Thai monarchs chose to be buried here until they ran out of room for building more grand stupas. Obviously, the temple’s biggest draw is the 150-foot-long reclining Buddha. While most visitors were enamored by the grandeur of the golden colossus, we were more taken by the exquisite artistry behind the enormous murals.

Wat Pho is not only renowned for its religious studies but also as a center of traditional medicine. In fact, the temple is said to be the alleged birthplace of Thai massage, a tradition that is still taught and practiced within the temple walls today. Thanks to Songkran, there were additional festivities here. We later learned that this was also the annual fair to raise funds for the upkeep of the temple. From fortune telling to the building of sand pagodas, we were very grateful to experience the more traditional side of Songkran.

After a leisurely riverside lunch at Supanniga Eating Room Tha Tien, we headed a few blocks away to the Museum Siam. Unlike the National Museum nearby, Museum Siam focuses not on historic artifacts but on the meaning of “Thainess” in contemporary Thailand. The exhibit may be geared toward a younger audience, but it is nevertheless very informative for foreign visitors. This was, oddly enough, my favorite experience in Bangkok, as it speaks to the complexity and the openness of Thailand today.

Because of inclement weather, we decided to check out Iconsiam, Thailand’s largest mall. I have always had an intense hatred toward shopping malls, but it seemed like a visit to Bangkok would not be complete without checking out a few of the malls. While I could appreciate the robust air conditioning and the escape from the street-level water fight, I still don’t understand the appeal. Besides the food offerings at SookSiam, there was nothing Thai about this mall. In hindsight, the highlight of Iconsiam was the ferry ride getting there.

Day 3 - Bangkok

For our last full day in Bangkok, we couldn’t miss out on a visit to The Grand Palace, the seat of the Thai monarchy. The palace is composed of a large temple complex, ceremonial palaces, a royal residence, and offices of the royal households. The most important space is Wat Phra Kaew, better known as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. As the name suggests, it houses the statue of the Emerald Buddha, a sacred object that could only be touched by the reigning Thai king. After waiting in line for a peek, we couldn’t help feeling disappointed by its size, as it is not that much bigger than Brussels’ Manneken Pis. The rest of the palace is overtly grand and an interesting blend of Thai and Western neoclassical style.

An amazing mural depicting a scene from Ramakia, the Thai national epic.

Unfortunately, the weather was horrible this morning. It was hot, sticky, and drizzling. On the other hand, I would have spent way too much time taking photos if the weather had been better. We were constantly amazed by how ineffective air conditioning systems were, except in the shopping malls. A relaxing lunch with excellent air conditioning was all we wished for. Since this was our last day here, we splurged a little by indulging in a feast at Somboon Seafood Bantadthong. The Thai Chinese restaurant is most known for its fried crab curry and tom yum goong.

After lunch, it was a quick fifteen-minute walk to Jim Thompson House & Museum. Thompson was an American businessman who “single-handedly” revived the Thai silk industry and was an enigmatic figure. He turned out to be an OSS spy and disappeared under mysterious circumstances. Despite his controversial past, Jim Thompson remains the premier fashion brand in Thailand and has been featured widely in the latest season of The White Lotus. The 40-minute guided tour through his house provided us with valuable insights into the traditional Thai lifestyle. It was undoubtedly serene, except for the lack of air conditioning.

As it happened, today was also our ninth wedding anniversary, so we were looking forward to a nice dinner out. We discovered that Bangkok has a branch of the Ministry of Crab, a popular Sri Lankan restaurant specializing in enormous mud crabs. We always had fond memories of the restaurant from our visit to Colombo; it was a great spot to reminisce about our past travels. That said, this was easily the most expensive meal on this trip.

Day 4 - Bangkok - Hsinchu

In all honesty, we were so ready to leave the heat and humidity of Bangkok behind. We still had a few hours to spare before our flight to Taiwan. I was eager to visit Talat Noi, a historic neighborhood that predates the founding of Bangkok. It has been home to generations of Chinese immigrants and retained its unique ambiance and historical structures, such as Chow Sue Kong Shrine and So Heng Tai Mansion. The one unexpected find was Talat Noi’s small but tasteful community museum. Thoughtful and lighthearted, it is one of the best community museums I have ever visited, but there was not another tourist in sight.

Talat Noi may seem rustic and chaotic at first, but it has become a cultural destination of its own in recent years. Many hipsters moved in to open up small boutique cafes and bars here. The rundown walls around the neighborhood are adorned with colorful murals that celebrate the area’s unique heritage. The visual contrast between avant-garde arts and old metal workshops is the reason why Talalt Noi attracts so many foreign and domestic tourists. The area is sometimes cited as a successful case of ”respectful” gentrification.

Even though we were flying economy for the four-hour flight to Taiwan, I was very excited to try out Starlux Airlines, Taiwan’s upstart luxury carrier. Founded by the former chairman of EVA Airways because of a family feud, this jazzy airline does not skimp on amenities and service, even on economy. Starlux’s existence was miraculous considering that it started operation in January 2020, just months before the pandemic. It is one airline that could someday rival Singapore or Qatar. We certainly look forward to their launch of service to New York.

It was already dark by the time we landed in Taiwan. Against my family’s advice, I opted to take a bus to my hometown. In hindsight, it was probably not worth the hassle to save fifty dollars. It was already late when we arrived at Hotel Fleur Lis, and we were thoroughly exhausted. Most sit-down restaurants were already closed at this hour, and I don’t believe Brian was ready for night markets on the first evening. We ended up calling a night at Ramenya, a small ramen shop by the hotel.

Day 5 - Hsinchu

Being in Hsinchu always confuses me. Although there were so many places I wanted to visit, we were ultimately here to spend time with my parents. Our first stop was to see my father’s private garden. An avid gardener, he arranged a property swap with the government for a tiny plot of land next to the railway track. Over the four years, he transformed a former abandoned construction site into a lush garden. Although he would occasionally ask for my advice, the design is thoroughly his. This little patch of land, which is a ten-minute drive from their apartment, is a distillation of his lifelong passions.

After catching up at their apartment, we had lunch at Xiang Duck, which specializes in Peking cucks. Although it is a chain restaurant, the food and services here are superb. For 100 USD, we had a dozen dishes for a table of four. What did we do when we were stuffed at lunch? We headed for dessert at MumMum Cake. This cake boutique is an Instagram hotspot, but the reason we were here was that their current flagship store was my grandparents’ house. There are many precious memories of this place. I was godsmacked by the dramatic transformation. My grandparents would have been pleasantly surprised.

After a long day of feasting, I spent the remainder of the day visiting Hsinchu's numerous historical landmarks. From the Baroque train station to the colonial-era city hall, my hometown is especially beautiful at night. It was a shame that Hsinchu is rarely on visitors’ radar. I know I ought to write a blog post about my hometown soon. Since Brian was still full from lunch, I extricated myself to indulge on several of my favorite childhood snacks, including crystal meatballs, a uniquely Taiwanese creation.

Day 6 - Hsinchu

Hsinchu may not be a tourist magnet, but it has experienced a mini-renaissance for the past few years. Many historic landmarks have been renovated and revitalized. One prominent example is Hsinchu Zoo, the oldest in Taiwan. When I was a kid, we would visit everywhere for the annual field painting competition, so this is a place of great nostalgia for my sister and me. Despite its long heritage, Hsinchu Zoo is often ridiculed for its minute collection of animals. Besides a hippo and a Bengal tiger, you could find all the other animals at either the petting zoo or a pet store in America. Brian cracked up when he saw guinea pigs and raccoons on display.

After a hot pot lunch at House V Hot Pot, we wandered through the Hsinchu Park. The large urban park includes the Confucius Temple and the historic observatory. My personal favorite is the Glass Museum of Hsinchu City, located within the colonial-era official guesthouse. Thanks to its natural gas and silicon deposits, the city was the center of Taiwan’s glass industry. The museum may not hold a candle to the Corning Museum of Glass, but it is nevertheless a great place to visit. I volunteered here as a docent in high school, and this was a place of great nostalgia for me. The adjoining glass-blowing studio was also a lot of fun.

The Heart of Hsinchu marks the historic center of town.

The rest of the day was very laid-back, with some shopping and wandering around the city center. The city looks more immaculate and orderly than I have ever remembered, but I must admit that the city feels more subdued compared to my childhood. With the booming semiconductor industry, Hsinchu’s economic development has shifted away from the historic center. However, I am optimistic that the city’s golden age is yet to come. We wrapped our evening at Hardcore Chiefs, a hole-in-the-wall eatery inside the newly revitalized Dongmen Market.

Day 7 - Hsinchu - Yehliu - Jiufen

I planned a little three-night getaway with my parents to the northern coast. The first stop was Yehliu Geopark, a small promontory famous for its unique geological formations. Compared to other coastal geoparks like the Giant's Causeway, Yehliu’s landscape is varied and full of playful personalities. I last visited here when I was still in grade school, so I was excited to see how the rocks have submitted to the attrition of time. The most famous landmark is the Queen’s Head, which bears a close resemblance to the silhouette of young Queen Elizabeth II. Although we did not bother lining up for a photo, I am fully aware that it was only a matter of time before the queen was decapitated by the erosion.

For lunch, I got to introduce Brian to the wonderful world of traditional Taiwanese steakhouse. Unlike in Western-style steakhouses, Taiwanese steaks are typically served on sizzling hot plates, accompanied by pasta, vegetables, and a cracked egg on top. The meal also includes corn chowder, unlimited drinks, and ice cream. The meal is affordable, quick, and very filling. It is, in fact, one of the most underrated dishes in Taiwan and is rarely found outside the country. Chuanxin Steak is not particularly famous, but it was certainly a satisfying meal.

The pièce de résistance today is Ju Ming Museum. Ju Ming is not only an internationally renowned Taiwanese artist, but also my father’s favorite artist. I would always snap a picture of his work for him on my travels. Ju donated over two thousand of his works and designed the museum himself. His most famous works are the Taichi series, evocative abstract bronze figures that communicate the static dynamism of traditional martial arts. However, we were most surprised by lesser-known works in wood and stainless steel. It was fun to see my parents being like kids in a candy store.

Among foreign tourists, the most popular day trip from Taipei is the mountain village of Jiufen. A former mining town, Jiufen, is nestled along the steep hillside and is famously the inspiration behind Studio Ghibli’s Spirited Away. It was already late when we arrived at our hotel, Daybreak. We were immediately taken by the magical ambiance of the red lanterns and narrow passageways. Our dinner at Old Window Oceanview Restaurant was unremarkable, but we were happy to find a place to eat at late hours.

Day 8 - Jiufen - Jiaoxi

After a restful night, we woke up to half-decent weather. By the time we checked out of the hotel, Jiufen was already overwhelmed by throngs of tourists. I could honestly say the town is certainly more beautiful at night. Depending on your perspective, one might prefer the liveliness of the daytime. The main street was jam-packed with visitors shoulder to shoulder, and it was pretty overwhelming even for those without claustrophobia. Like any tourist hotspot, many shops are selling identical items to unsuspecting tourists. While there are several Jiufen-specific local delicacies, such as their taro balls, it can be a hit or miss for most visitors.

Just a few minutes after leaving Jiufen, I began to feel unwell. We made a quick stop at nearby Jinguashi, the site for the main gold and copper mine. Their Gold Museum is said to be excellent, but I wouldn’t know; I took a nap in the car while my parents went out to take a peek. When they were back, I decided I was too sick to drive. Since Brian did not have an International Driver's License on this trip, we had to rely on my dad for driving, which was not ideal. Fortunately, our hotel in Jiaoxi was only about an hour away. I headed straight to bed when we arrived at the hotel in mid-afternoon. That meant Brian had a lot of bonding time with my parents!

Day 9 - Jiaoxi - Yilan - Jiaoxi

I felt almost back to normal the next morning. I felt fortunate that the Orient Luxury Hotel Jiaoxi was very comfortable for recovery. Our first stop today is Chung Hsing Cultural and Creative Park. This former paper mill has been transformed into a center of traditional crafts and creative industries. Since many traditional manufacturing industries struggled in the post-industrial economy, the government hoped to help them generate additional revenue by developing design products. Among them is a brick factory that began developing Lego-like micro-bricks for arts and crafts. This campus turned out to be an excellent place for souvenir shopping.

After lunch at Yellow Braised Chicken Rice and coffee at NiNôo Café, it was already pretty late in the day. Since I was still not feeling the best, I was more than happy to take it slow. I honestly think Brian was very happy to go at such a slow pace for once. The last stop of the day is Dongshan Mr. Brown Avenue. Because Yilan is known for its fertile land and rice fields, a local community creates an Instagram hotspot by building a viewing platform in the middle of the rice paddies. Sections of the field were pruned to create intricate crop circles. In addition to photo ops, visitors could also rent tandem bikes or kayaks through the irrigation canals. It is great to see how the rural community successfully develops sustainable tourism.

Dongshan Mr. Brown Avenue is great for photo ops.

Our rechao dinner at Maizui Club was upbeat and perhaps a little too raucous for my parents. Rechao is a unique genre in the Taiwanese culinary scene, where food is prepared quickly and seasoned heavily to pair with alcohol. The best way to round up the night was to enjoy the private onsen in the hotel room. Taiwan’s hot spring often flies under the radar. I suspect the country is just a bit too warm and humid for onsens most of the year.

Day 10 - Jiaoxi - Toucheng - Jiaoxi

Much to my dismay, the weather today was gloomy and rainy. Our options were limited because Yilan is such a popular outdoor destination. A visit to the nearby Lanyang Museum seemed like a great way pass time during in a rainy morning. Designed by noted Taiwanese Kris Yao, this evocative museum has been on my bucket list for years. It was not until put the direction into Google Maps that the museum is closed on Wednesdays and my plan for the days was ruined. Luckily, my parents were perfectly happy with just walking around the ground of the park and taking into the scenery.

I definitely feel guilty for letting everyone down. In the bid to make this day more memorable, I signed up for the last spots for a boat trip around Guishan Island. Also known as Turtle Island, Guishan was once a hub for smuggling and later became a crucial military outpost. The two-and-a-half-hour cruise was also billed as a dolphin and whale watching tour. Before leaving the port, the guide told us the chances of seeing dolphins are more than fifty percent. So we were all amazed that we saw several pods of dolphins just half an hour into the cruise. Although Brian and I had been up close and personal with dolphins in Oman, we were still surprised by the number.

The boat trip turned out to be a lot more fun and rewarding than I imagined. I was also glad none of us felt seasick. With the weather clearing up a little bit, we took a walk around the historic core of Toucheng (頭城), the coldest settlement of the region. Before taking my parents to the station to catch their train back to Hsinchu, we stopped by Jiaoxi Hot Springs Park to get a final soak. Our hope was quickly dashed when we realized the water was over 150 degrees Fahrenheit. Apparently, only the locals could handle the temperature of this water.

Day 11 - Jiaoxi - Yingge - Daxi - Hsinchu - Kaohsiung

Today is one hell of a travel day. After checking out of the hotel, we drove ninety minutes to Yingge (鶯歌). The city is renowned for its pottery and ceramic industry. Brian has always had a special fondness, so he has been itching for a visit and perhaps picking up a piece of fine pottery or two. Honestly, we were pretty disappointed by the selections at first. The offering along the main drag appears to be more utilitarian than artistic. Fortunately, we came upon a gallery called Fuguei. This museum-like gallery has some of the most beautiful ceramics we have ever seen, and they are surprisingly affordable. We ended up purchasing two pieces from the young artist, Chia-Liang Kang (康嘉良).

After a quick lunch at a local beef noodle soup joint, we just had enough time to make a detour to Daxi (大溪). This pint-sized village has an adorable old street filled with ornate colonial-era Baroque storefronts. But for most Taiwanese, Daxi is most known for its dazzling array of tofu products. I came here specifically to pick up some tofu snacks to bring home with me. Due to the heavy rain and our short time frame, I went on a shopping spree for pressed tofu snacks. That said, I think the total spending was less than $30.

After picking up our luggage from my parents in Hsinchu, we bid goodbye and boarded the high-speed rail toward the final stop on this trip: Kaohsiung. The ride only took 90 minutes, and I was genuinely excited to visit a big city at last. We would be spending three nights at the Brio Hotel, which is right on Central Park. Sadly, it was already late at night, and we were both exhausted from the travel. We stopped at Bin Bistro nearby before heading to bed.

Day 12 - Kaohsiung

Compared to the rest of the island, Southern Taiwan is known for good weather. After days of dreary weather in Yilan, I was beyond excited to wake up to crisp blue skies. One thing that immediately stood out to us was Kaohsiung’s grand boulevards and how quiet this metropolis is due to the relatively low number of scooters. It is oddly a pleasant place to ride the YouBike. For breakfast, we had excellent pineapple bun sandwiches at MINI.D Coffee. We think this may be the best breakfast sandwich I have ever had. Well, perhaps Dunkin’s or Starbucks should take a hint.

85 Sky Tower is the work of the same architect behind the design of Taipei 101.

Over the past two decades, Kaohsiung has undergone a remarkable transformation from a smog-filled port city into a vibrant metropolis. The newest addition is the Kaoshiung Main Station. Designed by Mecanoo, the station is an architectural behemoth that is surely head-turning. From there, it was a quick twenty-minute train ride to Zuoying District, the oldest part of the city. Besides remnants of the old fortifications, the main draw is the Lotus Lake. This artificial lake is home to several outlandish religious landmarks. The most famous of them all is the Dragon and Tiger Pagodas. It is unashamedly bombastic and somehow became a hit with foreign visitors.

The newly inaugurated Kaohsiung Railway Station is symbol of the city’s recent renaissance.

Now that we were almost at the end of the trip, I had to fulfill a promise I made to Brian: a meal at Din Tai Fung. This perennial favorite may not be the pinnacle of Taiwanese cuisine, but it surely delivered on consistency and service. Since they opened a branch in New York, we have come to appreciate how affordable Din Tai Fung is in Taiwan. With our bellies full, we were ready to explore the cultural side of Kaohsiung. Kaohsiung Museum of Fine Arts may be drab on the exterior, but the collections are superb. It offers a valuable perspective on the Taiwanese art scene.

Kaohsiung Port Cruise Terminal is surely weird.

By pure coincidence, my sister Christine happened to be in Kaohsiung for medical appointments. We were able to meet up with her and her friend Natalie for dinner at the swanky Old New Taiwanese Cuisine. As the name implies, this chef's table restaurant offers a fresh take on traditional Taiwanese dishes. It is by far the most gourmet dinner we had on this trip, with the price tag to match.

Day 13 - Kaohsiung

Our last full day got to a slow start. After another great breakfast at MINI.D Coffee, we continued our artistic journey at ALIEN Art Centre, a private contemporary art museum recommended by the staff at the fine museum yesterday. While it was a beautiful space and has exhibited many big-name artists, I can’t say the exhibits were not to our liking, as they seemed too pretentious to be relatable. I found the murals along the new light rail line to be far more interesting and enjoyable.

The harbor front of Kaohsiung has been the epicenter of Kaohsiung’s transition into a creative hub. Many industrial buildings have been turned into cultural and entrepreneurial spaces. The waterfront promenade is dotted with numerous public artworks and cafes. The area is also home to some of the city’s most celebrated landmarks, such as Kaohsiung Music Center and Kaohsiung Port Cruise Terminal. I was pleasantly surprised by the number of foreign visitors in Kaohsiung. For the first time, I began to recognize that Taiwan may be the next popular destination in Asia.

Formosa Boulevard metro station is sometimes regarded as one of the world's most beautiful subway station.

After a hotpot dinner at Moopot, I was on a mission to do my final shopping run at the local supermarket. Along the way, I had to check out the lively Liuhe Night Market, the most famous in Southern Taiwan. Despite being such a vital part of Taiwanese culture, I somehow forgot to take Brian to a night market. In hindsight, we should have had our last meal in the night markets. Even so, it was nevertheless a joy to soak up the last ounce of conviviality before heading home.

Day 14 - Kaohsiung - Seoul - Atlanta - New York

Our long journey back to New York started in the wee hours. We were surprised by just how busy Kaohsiung International Airport was at that hour. We had an eight-hour layover in Incheon Airport, which was just not enough time to go into Seoul. But thanks to our business class ticket, we could rest in comfort at a couple of Incheon’s numerous airport lounges. Our trip home may be long, but who could complain while enjoying the comfort of Delta One’s flagship A350 service?

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