A Fling With Torres del Paine
When somebody mentions Patagonia, chances are that they are referring to either Torres del Paine National Park in Chile or Mount Fitz Roy in Argentina. After finding out the astronomical cost of visiting Easter Island in the high season, we opted for a few days in Chilean Patagonia. Ironically, it did not take us long to discover that Patagonia is not exactly a budget option. Patagonia also requires significant time investments out of our limited vacation days due to its geographic location. Since it was a pretty long flight from Santiago, we had to check out Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales along the way.
Known for its dramatic granite peaks and turquoise-colored waters, Torres del Paine has attracted visitors since the publication of Across Patagonia by Lady Florence Dixie in 1880. Thanks to the commencement of regular flights from Santiago, this once-isolated region became relatively accessible compared to just ten years ago. Nowadays, the main obstacle to visiting Torres del Paine is not the physical distance but the exorbitant cost. Not only is the flight in and out of Puerto Natales unreasonably expensive, but the accommodation costs inside the park are particularly prohibitive for most travelers. I could not justify spending $250 for a bed in a glorified hostel.
LATAM, JetSmart, and SKY Airlies offer daily flights to Santiago during the summer season.
I initially hoped to partake in the fabled W-Trek, a multi-day hike that has been on my travel bucket list for ages. Our friends Ivy and Vince went on this trek two years ago and have been raving about it ever since. As much as I wanted to give that a go, we were woefully unprepared for it. Because it is such an iconic hike, hikers must book at least six months in advance for the high season by navigating the complex booking platform for the reserved campgrounds. After Brian’s debacle on the Inca Trail a few years ago, I was hesitant to commit to another costly and complex endeavor.
In the end, we decided to stay two nights at Hotel del Paine in Río Serrano, just outside of the southern entrance of the national park. The nightly rate was still ridiculously expensive, but it was still hundreds of dollars less than similar lodging options inside the park. To make the most out of our visit, we booked an extra night in Puerto Natales the evening before and after. In hindsight, Río Serrano was the best of both worlds. It was only a five-minute drive to the entrance, and we could get to the center of the park in half an hour. We were pleasantly surprised by the otherworldly scenery from the hotel.
Being a popular national park, Torres del Paine attracts a large number of visitors each day. Although an advanced reservation is not necessary, pre-purchasing tickets does speed up the process slightly. The three-day pass costs 32,400 CLP, which is beyond reasonable. Oddly enough, the park was not at all strict about access. Instead of having a staff member check the reservation at the entrance, visitors are required to check in and validate their reservation at the visitor center. It was an honor system. During our three-day visit, they only checked our reservation once. Ironically, the only time they checked our reservation was at the entrance to Laguna Azure, one of the least visited sections in the park.
With three and a half days, we had just enough time to explore the park without committing to any multi-day hikes. Do I wish we had gone on the W-Trek? Absolutely. However, I really enjoyed
Grey Glacier
Our first stop inside the park is Grey Glacier, and
Mirador Cóndor & Laguna Pehoé
Among all the short hikes in Torres del Paine, the
The
The
Cascada Paine & Laguna Azure
Having spent the majority of our time on the southern part of the national park, it suddenly dawned on me that we had yet to get a glimpse of the actual Torres del Paine, the three iconic granite peaks that are namesakes for the park.
Torres d'Agostini, Torres Central, Torres Monzino
