The Tales of Two Valleys

As much as I enjoyed our time in the Atacama region, planning the travel here was not as straightforward as I initially imagined. Most popular sites in the area are geared toward organized tours; however, many do not have an official website that details their opening hours and admission policies. Most travelers visit this region without a car; information on independent travel is surprisingly scarce. The conflicting information online regarding independent travel added a lot of anxiety to my trip. I constantly had to second-guess myself when planning my schedule. We even considered signing up for packaged tours to ease my anxiety. At $150 for five half-day tour modules, these tours are surprisingly affordable and run like a well-oiled machine.

For a region known for desolate serenity, most sites here have plenty of hoops to jump through, including advanced reservations and limited opening hours. The unnecessary red tape here went far beyond what is typical for sustainable tourism and responsible management. It was as if the local authorities wanted to make independent travel as difficult as possible, steering travelers toward tour operators. There's an air of economic collusion in the air if you ask me. My frustration with Atacama’s tourism is best illustrated by our visits to two valleys near San Pedro: the Valley of the Moon and the Rainbow Valley.

Valley Of The Moon

I may not have the proof, but I'm confident that Valle de la Luna, also known as Valley of the Moon, is the most popular day trip from San Pedro. Located only ten minutes outside the city center, this valley is known for its otherworldly, moon-like landscape. The valley is part of Reserva Nacional los Flamencos; the unique geography is the product of 33 million years of erosion and geological activity. The pictures online look stunning; it's understandable why this has become a massive Instagram hotspot. The best time to visit would be late afternoon to catch the beautiful sunset view. So it was no surprise that the entry was reserved for organized tour groups during that time. The “sunset tour” of the valley could run more than 40 USD per person.