Erfurt - The Heart of Thuringia
After Wittenberg, the next stop on our journey on the Luther Trail would be Erfurt, the state capital of Thuringia. Although we thoroughly enjoyed our two-night stay, I was surprised by just how quiet the Wittenberg was in the middle of the summer high season. Erfurt, in comparison, is a striving city buzzing with an intoxicating youthful and cosmopolitan energy. As Germany is blessed with countless charming towns and villages, it is understandable that first-time visitors often overlook Erfurt in favor of places like Lübeck and Rothenburg ob der Tauber. That said, I was genuinely giddy that there were so few English-speaking tourists here.
The Fountain of "Roughing Boys by Magdeburg sculptor Heinrich Apel.
I suspect most first-time visitors would wonder why Erfurt is not more well-known among international travelers.
Because Erfurt is situated just about at the geographical center of Germany, it is also an excellent home base for exploring central Germany. It is a conjecture on my part, but I suspect most foreign visitors come to Erfurt because of its association with Martin Luther. But after spending three nights, I almost forgot we initially came here for Erfurt’s Luther sites. Although fashioning itself as a “Lutherstadt”, it is a city that constantly surprises and reinvents itself throughout its 1,300-year history, having witnessed numerous seismic events in European history. It is a worthwhile stop regardless of your interest in the Reformation.
Medieval Erfurt
Despite being the largest city in Thuringia, Erfurt also has one of Germany’s best-preserved medieval centers. During the Holy Roman Empire, Erfurt was situated on the Via Regia, a medieval “highway” of commerce and pilgrimage that connected Eastern Europe to Galicia. The city became an important center of commerce and was eventually granted the status of a “free city” by the emperor in the early 13th century, and eventually joined the Hanseatic League in 1430 as part of the Prince-Archbishopric of Mainz. The city was heavily fortified and became one of the largest and most prosperous German towns in the Middle Ages.
Erfurt’s past wealth was evident at its historical central square: Fischmarkt (the Fish Market). Except for the 19th-century Town Hall, almost every building here dates back to the Renaissance period and is richly decorated with elaborate motifs in bright colors. The most flamboyant among them is the House of the Red Ox to the north, and the House of the Great Stove. Thankfully, the Fischmarket has nothing to do with seafood wholesale today. It is now a domain for political rallies and a place for meetups. In the middle of the square is a Renaissance column topped with a statue of a Roman soldier. The locals often regard him as Erfurt’s Roland, a medieval symbol that marked the town’s privileges within the Holy Roman Empire.
The House of the Great Stove.
The House of Red Ox and the famous “Roman” statue.
Because Erfurt was a major garrison town for the Wehrmacht, the city was targeted by twenty-seven air raids during the war. While hundreds of historical structures were damaged or destroyed, Erfurt was spared from the kind of area bombing raids that wiped out Dresden and Berlin. Of the 530 buildings destroyed by the air raid, less than five percent were classified as cultural properties. That said, several noted landmarks, such as Discalced's Church and the old library of the Augustinian monastery, were decimated. The city center today boasts a respectable collection of half-timbered houses and charming medieval guild signs.
Without a doubt, the crown jewel of the medieval Erfurt was Krämerbrücke, the Merchant Bridge. It is noted as one of the few remaining bridges in the world that has inhabited buildings. Since the bridges are historically high-traffic areas, building houses on bridges was not particularly rare in medieval times. In the case of Krämerbrücke, it was right on the Via Regia. It was first mentioned in historical records in 1117 and was destroyed by fire several times throughout its long history. The half-timbered houses we see on the bridge today mostly date back to the 16th and 17th centuries. This was indeed Europe’s longest and oldest continuously inhabited bridge.
To make the houses more habitable, wooden braces were installed at the sides of the bridge to allow deeper footprints. From the bridge, the lines of houses look like any other street in Erfurt. A chapel was built on each side of the bridge, but Saint Benedict's Church on the west end was demolished in 1895 to make way for a parallel bridge that could accommodate more traffic. The city was actually considering demolishing Krämerbrücke, but fortunately, the motion was tabled. The bridge spans the Gera River; its gurgling water makes this the most popular spot for people-watching and enjoying a gelato. The water was shallow enough to allow people and their pets to wade through on hot summer days. During our three-night stay, I saw a couple of instances of guys lounging in water with floaties.
One may argue that Florence’s Ponte Vecchio is the most iconic inhabited bridge in the world. However, having been to Florence, I can attest that what makes Krämerbrücke so unique is not the architecture, but rather how the bridge's historical ambiance is preserved. Considering it is the most desirable retail real estate, Krämerbrücke is not flooded with tacky tourist shops selling generic souvenirs made abroad. Instead of stores selling refrigerator magnets and Coke Zero, you will find galleries and artisan shops selling handmade goods. Many commercial tenants actually live above the shops, making Krämerbrücke a unique destination worth seeking out.
Krämerbrücke’s charm is far from accidental. After the fall of the Berlin Wall, the bridge was in need of revitalization and structural repairs. Since the city already owned all but four houses on the bridge, the city council created a foundation to manage all matters under one umbrella. To promote traditional crafts and culture, the foundation strictly controls the kind of businesses that could lease the space and the appearance of the storefronts. The foundation also operates an exhibition space at house #31, showcasing the heritage and preservation of Krämerbrücke. The highlight is an accurate 1:100 scaled model of the bridge.
One of the most prominent tenants here is the workshop of Martin Gobsch at house #2. Featured in Rick Steve’s episode, Gobsch is a master carver of traditional wooden puppets. Erfurt happens to be home to one of the country’s most celebrated puppet theaters, for which Gobsch received a commission along with other puppet theaters around the country. These amazing puppets are carved from linden wood and handcrafted according to the sketches he developed. His small workshop was open to visitors, and he took pride in showing visitors his crafts. Since his puppets are not for sale to the public, visitors could enjoy a mechanized puppet show outside of his workshop. For just one Euro, the “evil queen” would reveal the story of Snow White, from eating the poisoned apple to the happy ever after.
Since we came here because of Martin Luther, I obviously had to trace the footsteps of Luther. He enrolled at the University of Erfurt, technically the oldest in the German-speaking world. He initially studied law but soon shifted to the liberal arts, graduating with a degree in philosophy. The university closed in 1816 when Erfurt was absorbed into the Kingdom of Prussia and was only revived after the German reunification. As such, few traces from Luther’s time remain. The oldest building was Collegium Maius, the main building of the old university, with a handsome Gothic entrance portico.
The more important site is actually Erfurt’s Augustinian Monastery. When Luther traveled back to Erfurt from his parents’ home in Eisleben, he experienced a religious conversion in the midst of a terrifying thunderstorm. He made a vow to become a monk if he survived the storm. He became an Augustinian monk two weeks later. After his ordination, Luther celebrated his first mass at the monastery church. It was at this monastery that Luther began his spiritual journey, which ultimately led to his doubts about the Roman Church. His pilgrimage to Rome from Erfurt only heightened his distaste for the abuse and corruption of the church.
The monastery was secularized and eventually acquired by the city. The cell where Luther stayed was destroyed by a fire in 1872, but it was immediately rebuilt, as it was already a site of pilgrimage among Luther’s followers. Now owned by the Evangelical Lutheran Church of Germany, the complex operates as a conference facility and provides monastery-style accommodations. Interestingly, the night rates there are even more than those of four-star hotels in the historic center.
Domplatz
The other site that is a must for Luther’s fans would be the Cathedral of Saint Mary. It was here in 1507 that Martin Luther was ordained as a monk. The cathedral and the equally impressive Saint Severus’ Church are situated on a hill directly west of Domplatz, the Cathedral Square. The twin church perched above the city like a religious beacon and is accessible via a grand staircase. However, it was blocked off during our visit for an outdoor production of Jesus Christ Superstar and La Bohème. The silver lining, however, was that we got a decent view of their rehearsals. One could hardly think of a better backdrop, right?
The Cathedral of Saint Mary is constructed in the High Gothic style and has a soaring nave. The elaborately carved choir pieces are a work of art in their own right. It feels surreal to stand at the exact spot where Luther was ordained. I was somewhat surprised that the Lutheran church did not take over this grand church. Naturally, we did not see any display or signage on the cathedral’s Luther connections. The impressive stained glass windows are a highlight of the visit, but the cathedral’s claim to fame is its enormous bell, called Gloriosa Bell. It is the largest free-swinging medieval bell in the world and was only rung for special occasions, such as the election of a new pope or the investiture of a new bishop. A guided tour to Gloriosa Bell could be arranged by phone in advance.
Ironically, the historical event that intrigued us the most here was not about Luther, but the infamous Erfurt Latrine Disaster, which is honestly one of the bizarre incidents in medieval history. In 1184, King Henry VI of Germany came to Erfurt to adjudicate disputes between local nobles and the Archbishop of Mainz. The meeting was held on the upper floor of a building right next to the Cathedral of Saint Mary. Because of the great number of attendees, the floor collapsed when rotten beams gave in. The combined weight of the debris and attendees fell through the ground floor into an underground cesspit. According to contemporary records, sixty nobles and officials drowned in human waste. Some were supposed to suffocate from the smells.
Fortunately, the king was unharmed, as he was seated on the stone platform at the end of the hall. Archbishop survived unharmed while the other party in the dispute, Louis III, Landgrave of Thuringia, fell into the sewage but survived. Most frustrating of all, the king left Erfurt immediately, leaving the dispute unresolved. The entire episode was eventually mythologized due to its peculiar nature. Despite the infamy, scholars are not able to come into agreement on the exact location of the incident. All we know for sure is that it was a building very close to the cathedral.
The sarcophagus of Saint Severus of Revenna.
Ironically, I actually prefer the smaller Saint Severus’ Church. A long series of earlier churches preceded this five-aisle church. When Holy Roman Emperor Henry IV conquered Erfurt in 1079, he set the church on fire along with hundreds of locals sheltered inside. The church received its name when the bones of Saint Severus of Ravenna, which had been stolen and ended up here in the 9th century. The massive 15th-century sarcophagus is striking for its artistic achievements. Visitors may notice the absence of ornate stained glass here. They were apparently destroyed in a British air raid, giving the interior a Protestant appearance.
Aside from being an important hub for public transportation, Domplatz also hosts the daily farmers’ market. The most notable specialty on sale here is the Thuringian Bratwurst. Germany may have many famous sausages, but locals insist that the Thuringian Bratwurst is the oldest and best variety. The slender sausage is served in a small round bun with mustard. Flavored with marjoram and caraway, these mighty bratwurst are perhaps my favorite sausage of all time. Best of all, they were among the leanest of all German sausages.
Petersberg Citadel.
The best testament to Erfurt’s prosperity and historical importance is Petersberg Citadel, just to the northwest of Domplatz. This Baroque star-shaped fortress was first built in the 17th century to showcase the political dominance of the then-ruler, the Archbishop-Elector of Mainz. This was supposedly one of the largest town fortresses constructed in Europe. Covering an area of ninety acres, Petersberg Citadel had been an important military base for rulers of Erfurt, ranging from Prussia, Napoleon, to the Nazi. The fortress was based on a plan drafted by local architect Caspar Vogel and carried out by the most celebrated military architect at the time.
The main gate bears the coat of arms of Johann Philipp von Schönborn, the Archbishop-Elector of Mainz.
The impressive fortress attracted admiration from notable figures, including Napoleon Bonaparte and Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. After the city surrendered to Napoleon, the French emperor took a particular interest and exerted direct rule by establishing the Principality of Erfurt in 1807. He spent some time here on several occasions. One of the most notable events here is the Congress of Erfurt, a historic meeting between Napoleon and Tsar Alexander I that affirms their military alliance against Prussia and Great Britain. The two parties ultimately crumbled within two years. With the aid of the Russians, Prussia eventually captured the fortress in 1814.
The fortress was subsequently enlarged and strengthened to account for the increasing firepower of more modern weaponry. After German unification, the Petersberg Citadel suddenly lost its strategic importance. When Emperor Wilhelm I ordered the fortress to be demolished, the fortress was inadvertently spared due to the enormous expense it would have required. While many military features were subsequently removed, many structures survived and remained in continuous use. Today, it is an excellent public park filled with historical monuments, cultural spaces, and cafes.
A popular tourist site today, the fortress has excellent infrastructure, including accessible elevators to various viewpoints and a state-of-the-art visitor center. Unfortunately, all the guided tours were only offered in German. The staff actually advised us against visiting the paid special exhibition for similar reasons. That said, we still enjoyed our time at the fortress tremendously, aside from the incredible vistas of the old town and Domplatz. It is easily one of the most popular photo spots in town. Of all the surviving structures inside the fortress, we were most intrigued by the Church of Saint Peter’s. It was a former monastery church that served as an assembly place for the imperial diets and is now a museum for international Concrete Art. But what really interested us was the fact that some scholars believe this was actually the site of the Erfurt Latrine Disaster!
During the Nazi period, the fortress was reverted to military use. More notably, it served as an internment center for political prisoners before being sent to concentration camps. There was also a military tribunal inside the commandant's house to try the deserters of the Wehrmacht. Since desertions carried automatic death penalties, those convicted were immediately executed on the spot without due process or appeals. Located at the base of the fortified walls is the Monument to the Unknown Wehrmacht Deserter. Designed by Thomas Nicolai, this subdued memorial commemorates those who objected to the crimes committed under Nationalist Socialism. I can’t help wondering if this is the only monument to deserts anywhere in the world.
Monument to the Unknown Wehrmacht Deserter.
Three Bishops “Eingesessen” by Volkmar Kuhn.
Standing above the southernmost battlement is an enigmatic sculpture of three bronze bishops with golden mitres facing toward the cathedral. Created by Eastern Thüringian artist Volkmar Kühn, “Eingesessen” was placed as part of a temporary art exhibition in the citadel in 2021. It became beloved by the people and inadvertently became an icon of Erfurt. The city eventually purchased the sculptures from the artist, and now they have become a permanent fixture here. Despite their fame, I had a hard time looking up information on the artist’s intent behind the piece.
Jewish Heritage of Erfurt
The idyllic old town today is the playground for leisurely activities, but it has a very dark history when it came to Erufrt’s Jewish heritage. It was actually the part of Erfurt that is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Most of us were keenly aware of the horrific history of German Jews under the Nazi, but I still knew very little about Jewish history here. It turned out that Erfurt once had the largest Jewish community within the Holy Roman Empire. The population reached its peak in the High Middle Ages.
Most of Erfurt’s Jewish population settled in the area north of Krämerbrücke and east of Fischmarkt. According to historic property records, Jewish families, although congregated into a compact area, it is not an exclusive Jewish neighborhood like the Jewish ghetto in Rome. At the center of the community was the Old Synagogue of Erfurt. Dating back to the early 12th century, the synagogue is regarded as the oldest surviving in Europe. Obviously, the synagogue was not in continuous use due to the turbulence experienced by the Jewish population here.
The first significant incident against Jews documented was the Pogrom of 1221. Rumors spread that the Jews were sacrificing Christina for their rituals. The angry mob stormed the synagogue and destroyed the Torah. The mobs burned down the temple and killed those inside when Jewish congregants refused to renounce their faith. In the end, a few dozen Jews were murdered or committed suicide. Despite the incident, Erfurt’s Jewish community carried on and continued to expand. During these periods, Jews faced a slew of legal restrictions, including paying a special “parish tax” to the archbishop and regulations on where they could conduct trade.
The most infamous incident, however, was the Pogrom of 1349. Erfurt was grappling with the devastating plague, and rumors began to circulate that Jews were poisoning the city’s water supply and were the leading cause of the disease. Despite the legal protection afforded to Jews, the city council did little to dispel the rumors and enforce public safety. The violent mob eventually resulted in a wholesale massacre of Jews. Up to a hundred Jews were murdered inside the synagogue. Those not successful at escaping were lynched and their properties looted. It was said that many Jews committed suicide by burning themselves inside their own houses. The death toll ranges widely among historians; some estimate as many as three thousand Jews perished in the pogrom.
Although the Jews eventually returned to Erfurt after a few years, the synagogue was sold off to Christians and became a warehouse. Over the centuries, the building's interiors were modified to serve various purposes, including restaurants, a dance hall, and a bowling alley. But thanks to the conversion, the synagogue escaped the destruction by the Nazi. The building stayed in private hands until the city purchased it in 1998 and reopened it as a museum of Jewish heritage. We were lucky enough to visit on the monthly “free day”. Although much of the original interior and all the furnishing was lost, traces of the 12th-century temple could still be identified.
Erfurt’s Jewish heritage came into international focus when a sizeable trove of golden treasure was discovered within the wall of a medieval cellar. It did not take long for archaeologists to conclude that these treasures once belonged to Kalman von Wiehe, a wealthy Jewish banker. The treasure was hidden away during the Pogrom of 1349. Evidently, he was lynched, and his most valuable possessions were left undisturbed until rediscovered in 1998. As such, the Erfurt Treasure represents the largest and most pristine collection of its kind.
The Jewish wedding ring of Erfurt. Image credit: Samuel Zuder.
The treasure includes silver bars, thousands of golden coins, and more than 700 pieces of decorative accessories of the finest craftsmanship. Appropriately, the highlights of the treasure were exhibited today at the cellar level of the Old Synagogue, and it gave us a glimpse of the world of medieval life. The undisputed highlight would be an intricately carved wedding ring made without any gemstones. The top of the ring is adorned with a Jewish temple graced with Gothic gables. The ring itself is shaped as two interlocked hands, an ancient symbol of fidelity. The only engraving on the ring is masel tov, a Jewish phrase expressing congratulations or wishing someone good luck.
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